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Your Beauty Knowledge · BEAUTYSTORE Guide
Ingredients A to Z – what’s really in your skincare
Clearly explained, honestly reviewed – so you know what you’re putting on your skin
INCI lists are long, terms are often incomprehensible, and promises on packaging are sometimes more marketing than truth. This glossary helps you understand the most important active ingredients and substances – what they do, which skin types they are suitable for, and what you should look out for.
A
Adenosine
- INCI: Adenosine
- Was es ist: Smooths fine lines and gently stimulates collagen production.
- Was es bewirkt: Endogenous molecule that stimulates cell renewal, boosts collagen production, and visibly reduces fine lines. Works without irritation and is exceptionally well tolerated.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Mature Skin · Sensitive Skin
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Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)
- INCI: Glycolic Acid / Lactic Acid / Mandelic Acid
- Was es ist: Loosen dead skin cells and visibly refine the skin texture.
- Was es bewirkt: Chemical exfoliants that dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells. Glycolic acid penetrates the deepest, lactic acid is the gentlest, and mandelic acid is ideal for sensitive skin. Result: smoother skin texture, more radiant complexion, improved absorption of active ingredients.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Normal skin · Mature Skin · Skin with pigmentation spots
- Warnung: Use sunscreen after application – AHAs increase UV sensitivity. Use in the evening and introduce gradually. Not suitable for very sensitive or reactive skin.
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Activated charcoal
- INCI: Charcoal Powder / Activated Charcoal
- Was es ist: Binds dirt and excess sebum and deeply cleanses pores.
- Was es bewirkt: Highly porous material with exceptional absorption capacity. Draws out sebum, dirt, and residues from pores and visibly cleanses the skin. Ideal for masks and cleansing products for oily and blemished skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Oily skin · Impure Skin · Combination skin
- Warnung: Do not use daily – over-cleansing can weaken the skin barrier. Rinse well and moisturize after use.
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Allantoin
- INCI: Allantoin
- Was es ist: Soothes, supports cell renewal, and softens the skin.
- Was es bewirkt: Promotes cell renewal, soothes irritated and inflamed skin, and gently removes dead skin cells. Leaves the skin soft, smooth, and calm.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Sensitive Skin · Dry skin
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Alpha-Arbutin
- INCI: Alpha-Arbutin
- Was es ist: Inhibits melanin production and evens out the complexion.
- Was es bewirkt: Plant-derived active ingredient that inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase – responsible for melanin production. Brightens pigmentation spots, age spots, and uneven complexion without irritating the skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Skin with pigmentation spots · All skin types · Mature Skin
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Argan oil
- INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
- Was es ist: Intensively nourishes, protects the barrier, and gives Glow without feeling greasy.
- Was es bewirkt: Rich in Vitamin E, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants. Intensively nourishes dry skin, protects against environmental influences, and gives a natural Glow – while being lighter than many other facial oils.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Dry skin · Mature Skin · Normal skin · Combination skin
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Astaxanthin
- INCI: Astaxanthin
- Was es ist: One of the most powerful natural antioxidants for skin and cell protection.
- Was es bewirkt: Red carotenoid pigment from microalgae. Protects skin cells from oxidative stress, supports skin moisture, and contributes to a fresher complexion.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Mature Skin
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Azelaic Acid
- INCI: Azelaic Acid
- Was es ist: Clarifies the complexion, reduces pigmentation spots, and soothes redness.
- Was es bewirkt: Regulates sebum production, inhibits bacterial growth in blemishes, slows melanin production, and soothes redness. Simultaneously acts against blemishes, pigmentation spots, and redness tendency.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Impure Skin · Combination skin · Skin with pigmentation spots
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Gut zu wissen:
B
Bakuchiol
- INCI: Bakuchiol
- Was es ist: Plant-based Retinol alternative without increased light sensitivity.
- Was es bewirkt: Extract from the Babchi plant with retinol-like effects. Supports collagen production, improves skin texture, and smooths fine lines – without irritation, redness, or increased light sensitivity.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Sensitive Skin
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Bentonite / Kaolin
- INCI: Bentonite / Kaolin
- Was es ist: Absorbs excess sebum and deeply cleanses the pores.
- Was es bewirkt: Natural clay minerals with high absorption capacity. They draw out sebum, dirt, and residues from the pores, mattify, and refine the skin texture – ideal for masks and cleansing products.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Oily skin · Combination skin · Impure Skin
- Warnung: Do not leave on for too long – if the skin becomes overly dry, moisturize generously. Not suitable as a regular cleanser for very dry or sensitive skin.
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Beta-Glucan
- INCI: Beta-Glucan
- Was es ist: Soothes, strengthens the barrier, and supports the skin microbiome.
- Was es bewirkt: Natural polysaccharide derived from oats or mushrooms. Soothes irritated skin, strengthens the barrier function, and supports the natural balance of the skin flora. Suitable for all skin types – including very sensitive skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Sensitive Skin
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Gut zu wissen:
Biotin
- INCI: Biotin
- Was es ist: Biotin contributes to the maintenance of normal hair, skin, and nails.
- Was es bewirkt: Water-soluble B vitamin involved in the metabolism of fatty acids. Biotin helps maintain normal skin and supports normal energy metabolism.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Mature Skin
- Warnung: Dietary supplements are not a substitute for a balanced diet. Follow the daily recommended intake.
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Gut zu wissen:
Bisabolol
- INCI: Alpha-Bisabolol
- Was es ist: Soothes irritated skin, has anti-inflammatory effects, and supports regeneration.
- Was es bewirkt: Natural active ingredient originally from the chamomile flower. Soothes redness and irritation, enhances the absorption of other active ingredients, and supports wound healing.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Sensitive Skin · All skin types
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Borage oil
- INCI: Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
- Was es ist: Specialist for mature skin with the highest GLA content of all plant oils.
- Was es bewirkt: Contains more gamma-linolenic acid than evening primrose oil, making it the most effective plant oil for mature and hormonally influenced skin. Supports barrier lipids and reduces moisture loss.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Mature Skin · Dry skin
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C
Calendula extract
- INCI: Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
- Was es ist: Soothes, protects, and supports sensitive and irritated skin.
- Was es bewirkt: Extract from calendula with anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and wound-healing properties. Soothes irritated skin, strengthens the barrier, and protects against environmental influences.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Sensitive Skin · Dry skin · All skin types
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Centella Asiatica
- INCI: Centella Asiatica Extract
- Was es ist: Soothes, supports regeneration, and strengthens the skin after stress or irritation.
- Was es bewirkt: Plant extract from Asian pennywort. Stimulates collagen production, supports wound healing, soothes inflamed skin, and strengthens the barrier function.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Sensitive Skin · All skin types
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Ceramide
- INCI: Ceramide NP / Ceramide AP / Ceramide EOP
- Was es ist: Strengthen the protective barrier and retain moisture in the skin.
- Was es bewirkt: Ceramide are natural lipids that make up about 50% of the skin barrier. They decrease with age – leading to dryness, sensitivity, and loss of elasticity. When applied topically, they support the barrier, bind moisture, and protect against environmental influences.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Mature Skin · Sensitive Skin · Dry skin
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Cévéblé®
- INCI: Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
- Was es ist: Visibly firms and improves skin density in the long term.
- Was es bewirkt: Exclusive PHYT'S active ingredient complex from wheat germ with multiple Anti-Aging mechanisms. Creates visible firming, improves skin density, and gives the skin a fresher appearance.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Mature Skin
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Coenzyme Q10
- INCI: Ubiquinone
- Was es ist: Protects cells from oxidative stress and supports cell renewal.
- Was es bewirkt: Endogenous antioxidant whose concentration decreases with age. Protects cells from free radicals, supports cellular respiration, and promotes the regeneration of mature skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Mature Skin · All skin types
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Gut zu wissen:
D
Decyl Glucoside
- INCI: Decyl Glucoside
- Was es ist: Mild, plant-based surfactant for gentle cleansing without drying out.
- Was es bewirkt: Derived from coconut and sugarcane. Gently and thoroughly cleanses the skin without compromising the natural barrier. Well tolerated, non-comedogenic, and biodegradable – a standard in organic certified natural cosmetics.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Sensitive Skin · Dry skin
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Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
- INCI: Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
- Was es ist: Amino acid derivative that supports the skin's collagen structure.
- Was es bewirkt: Combination of hydroxyproline – a natural component of collagen – and palmitic acid for better skin penetration. Supports the elasticity and appearance of mature skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Mature Skin · All skin types
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Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
- INCI: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
- Was es ist: Licorice root extract with soothing and anti-inflammatory effects.
- Was es bewirkt: Extracted from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza). Soothes irritated and inflamed skin, has anti-inflammatory effects, and supports the barrier function – especially effective for redness-prone and sensitive skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Sensitive Skin · All skin types · Impure Skin
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E
Ectoin
- INCI: Ectoin
- Was es ist: Protects skin cells from stress caused by heat, UV radiation, and environmental influences.
- Was es bewirkt: Natural amino acid originally discovered in extremophilic bacteria. Forms a protective film around cells and proteins, stabilizes the skin barrier, and acts as a moisture binder – especially effective for stressed and sensitive skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Sensitive Skin
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Gut zu wissen:
Escin
- INCI: Escin
- Was es ist: Horse chestnut active ingredient that decongests and promotes microcirculation.
- Was es bewirkt: Active ingredient from horse chestnut. Strengthens blood vessel walls, promotes microcirculation, and has a decongestant effect – especially effective for swollen eye areas, dark circles, and tired skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types
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Ethylhexylglycerin
- INCI: Ethylhexylglycerin
- Was es ist: Modern preservative and skincare agent in one.
- Was es bewirkt: Synthetic Glycerin-derived compound with antimicrobial properties. Inhibits the growth of skin-damaging bacteria, provides light moisture, and is considered a well-tolerated alternative to parabens.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types
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Gut zu wissen:
F
Ferulic Acid
- INCI: Ferulic Acid
- Was es ist: Enhances the effect of Vitamin C and E and protects against light damage.
- Was es bewirkt: Plant-based antioxidant from cereal bran. Neutralizes free radicals and has been proven to enhance the protective effect of Vitamin C and E against UV-induced skin damage.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Mature Skin
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G
Ginkgo extract
- INCI: Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
- Was es ist: Antioxidant and circulation booster for fresher, more vibrant skin.
- Was es bewirkt: Extract from the ginkgo tree with strong antioxidant effects. Supports microcirculation, protects against free radicals, and gives the skin freshness and vitality.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Mature Skin
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Gut zu wissen:
Glycerin
- INCI: Glycerin
- Was es ist: Draws moisture from the air into the skin and keeps it there.
- Was es bewirkt: One of the oldest and most effective moisturizers ever. Glycerin acts as a humectant – it binds water molecules and retains them in the stratum corneum. It strengthens the barrier function and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types
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Green Tea Extract / EGCG
- INCI: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
- Was es ist: Powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from damage caused by environmental factors.
- Was es bewirkt: Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is the most effective polyphenol active ingredient from green tea. It neutralizes free radicals, has anti-inflammatory effects, and protects against light-induced skin aging.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Sensitive Skin · Mature Skin
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Gut zu wissen:
H
Rosehip oil
- INCI: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
- Was es ist: Supports cell renewal and cares for mature or sun-damaged skin.
- Was es bewirkt: Rich in essential fatty acids. Supports cell renewal, improves skin texture, and brightens pigmentation irregularities.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Mature Skin · Dry skin · Skin with pigmentation spots
- Warnung: Rosehip oil oxidizes quickly – store in a cool, dark place. Keeping it in the refrigerator extends its shelf life.
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Witch Hazel Extract
- INCI: Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
- Was es ist: Tightens pores, regulates sebum, and gently soothes irritated skin.
- Was es bewirkt: Extract from witch hazel with an astringent effect. Visibly tightens pores, regulates excessive sebum production, and soothes irritated or inflamed skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Oily skin · Combination skin · Impure Skin
- Warnung: Pay attention to watery extracts without alcohol – in alcoholic solutions, witch hazel can dry out and irritate.
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Hyaluronic Acid
- INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
- Was es ist: Binds moisture in the skin and plumps it from within.
- Was es bewirkt: Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin and can bind many times its own weight in water. It smooths fine lines caused by dryness, improves skin elasticity, and creates a plumper, fresher complexion – without feeling greasy.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Dry skin · Mature Skin · Sensitive Skin
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Gut zu wissen:
Hydroquinone
- INCI: Hydroquinone
- Was es ist: Powerful brightener – banned in cosmetics in the EU.
- Was es bewirkt: Inhibits melanin production very effectively. In the European Union and Switzerland, hydroquinone is banned in cosmetic products – it is classified as a prescription-only substance.
- Warnung: Banned in cosmetic products in the EU and Switzerland. Products from third countries may contain hydroquinone – pay attention to the INCI list.
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I
Inulin
- INCI: Inulin
- Was es ist: Prebiotic fiber that nourishes and strengthens the skin microbiome.
- Was es bewirkt: Natural fiber from chicory or agave. Nourishes beneficial bacteria on the skin, supports microbiome balance, and strengthens the barrier function. Ideal for stressed, sensitive, or imbalance-prone skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Sensitive Skin · All skin types · Impure Skin
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Gut zu wissen:
Iron oxides
- INCI: Iron Oxides (CI 77491 / CI 77492 / CI 77499)
- Was es ist: Natural color pigments for makeup – safe, stable, and well tolerated.
- Was es bewirkt: Inorganic pigments that occur naturally and are now synthetically produced identically. They give foundation, concealer, and lip products their color. Photostable, non-irritating, and suitable for all skin types.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types
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Gut zu wissen:
Isopropyl Myristate
- INCI: Isopropyl Myristate
- Was es ist: Emollient for a silky skin feel – improves texture and absorption of products.
- Was es bewirkt: Synthetic fatty acid ester that softens the skin and improves the absorption of active ingredients. Gives creams and serums a light, non-greasy texture.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Normal skin · Dry skin · Mature Skin
- Warnung: Can be comedogenic in high concentrations for acne-prone or very oily skin – pay attention to the concentration in the formula.
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J
Jojoba oil
- INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
- Was es ist: Regulates sebum production and cares for the skin without clogging pores.
- Was es bewirkt: Technically not an oil, but a liquid wax – structurally very similar to the body's own sebum. It regulates sebum production, forms a light protective film, and is non-comedogenic.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Oily skin · Combination skin · Impure Skin
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Gut zu wissen:
K
Caviar extract
- INCI: Caviar Extract
- Was es ist: Revitalizes mature skin with a unique complex of amino acids and minerals.
- Was es bewirkt: Rich in amino acids, minerals, vitamins, and essential fatty acids. Supports cell renewal, firms, and gives a radiant complexion.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Mature Skin
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Caffeine
- INCI: Caffeine
- Was es ist: Activates microcirculation, reduces swelling and dark circles.
- Was es bewirkt: Constricts the blood vessels under the eye area, visibly reduces puffiness and dark circles. Additionally, it protects against oxidative stress as an antioxidant.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types
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Marine Collagen (Supplement)
- INCI: Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen
- Was es ist: Hydrolyzed fish collagen for daily intake as a dietary supplement.
- Was es bewirkt: Hydrolyzed marine collagen is broken down into tiny peptides that the body can absorb. Biotin helps maintain normal skin, and Vitamin C supports normal collagen formation.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Mature Skin · All skin types
- Warnung: Dietary supplements are not a substitute for a balanced diet. Follow the daily recommended intake.
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Collagen (topical)
- INCI: Hydrolyzed Collagen
- Was es ist: Provides moisture and acts as a film former on the skin surface.
- Was es bewirkt: As an ingredient in creams, hydrolyzed collagen primarily acts as a moisturizer and forms a light protective film on the skin's surface. In this form, the molecules are too large to penetrate deeper into the skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Mature Skin · Dry skin
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Gut zu wissen:
L
Lactobacilli / Probiotics
- INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment
- Was es ist: Strengthen the skin microbiome and support the skin's natural balance.
- Was es bewirkt: Support the natural balance of the skin flora, strengthen the barrier function, and reduce inflammatory reactions. Especially effective for stressed, sensitive, or breakout-prone skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Sensitive Skin · Impure Skin · All skin types
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Gut zu wissen:
Lavender oil
- INCI: Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
- Was es ist: Soothes, supports regeneration, and harmonizes sensitive skin.
- Was es bewirkt: One of the most commonly used essential oils in natural cosmetics. It soothes irritated skin, supports regeneration, and has a balancing effect on the skin condition.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types · Sensitive Skin · Mature Skin
- Warnung: Always use essential oils in a formula or diluted – never undiluted on the skin.
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Linoleic acid
- INCI: Linoleic Acid
- Was es ist: Essential fatty acid for an intact skin barrier and balanced sebum production.
- Was es bewirkt: Omega-6 fatty acid that the body cannot produce on its own. It is a component of the skin barrier, regulates sebum production, and reduces inflammation – especially important for impure and oily skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Oily skin · Impure Skin · Combination skin
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Gut zu wissen:
M
Maca Extract
- INCI: Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract
- Was es ist: Supports hormonal balance and energy during perimenopause.
- Was es bewirkt: Adaptogenic plant extract from the Andean root Maca. Helps the body cope with hormonal fluctuations and promotes well-being.
- Warnung: Dietary supplements are not a substitute for a balanced diet. Follow the daily recommended intake.
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Madecassoside
- INCI: Madecassoside
- Was es ist: Highly concentrated Centella active ingredient for intensive soothing and regeneration.
- Was es bewirkt: Isolated triterpene from Centella Asiatica – more effective than the whole extract. Stimulates collagen synthesis, supports wound healing, and soothes highly irritated or inflamed skin.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: Sensitive Skin
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Gut zu wissen:
Magnesium
- INCI: Magnesium Gluconate
- Was es ist: Magnesium helps reduce tiredness and fatigue.
- Was es bewirkt: Essential mineral for hundreds of metabolic processes. Magnesium contributes to normal muscle function, normal energy metabolism, and the reduction of tiredness and fatigue.
- Warnung: Dietary supplements are not a substitute for a balanced diet. Follow the daily recommended intake.
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Gut zu wissen:
Mineral oils
- INCI: Paraffinum Liquidum / Petrolatum / Microcrystalline Wax
- Was es ist: Petroleum-based film formers without active care effect – sealing instead of nourishing.
- Was es bewirkt: Form a dense film on the skin that seals in moisture. No penetration, no active care, no support of skin function.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types
- Warnung: Not allowed in organic certified natural cosmetics.
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Gut zu wissen:
Moringa extract
- INCI: Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
- Was es ist: Protects against environmental pollution and nourishes the skin.
- Was es bewirkt: Extract from the moringa tree with the ability to bind heavy metals and air pollutants. Protects against urban environmental influences and nourishes the skin's appearance.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types
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Gut zu wissen:
W
Aqua / Water
- INCI: Aqua / Water
- Was es ist: Water is the most commonly used ingredient in cosmetics – and almost always appears first.
- Was es bewirkt: Water serves as a solvent, carrier, and moisturizer. It dissolves water-soluble active ingredients, enables their even distribution, and ensures the desired product texture.
- Für folgende Hauttypen geeignet: All skin types
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